To the girl I nearly killed yesterday

(From the Endopolis archive. Originally posted 10/08)

Dear anonymous surfer girl:

Sure was a nice afternoon in Capitola on Sunday, wasn’t it? The surf was up — some of those sets rolling through, breaking on the outside reef were solid head-high — and it was pretty good, even at high tide and with that breeze on it. There was a lot of water moving around — really the first real swell we’ve had this fall. I had some long rides and managed to get slapped around a little — it was the kind of day we live for, the kind of day the ocean lets you know you’re alive.

So I’m sure it looked pretty tempting from shore, but it was pretty dumb that your boyfriend (I assume that’s who he was) lead you straight out to the peak when you got in the water. I could tell you hadn’t surfed much before. You paddled pretty well but had a bit of a fearful look on your face, like you didn’t really want to be out there. Maybe it was a little too big for you. We’ve all been there before. I understand.

He was also kind of a loudmouth, but the waves were too good for me to really pay much attention. At least until that one set came through. I paddled over the first one, and got ready for the second. That wave, it was going to be my best of the day. I had eaten shit on the previous set, as a nice big one crashed on my back before I could get up — I was just a little too far inside. That was kind of embarrassing, but I shook it off and got ready for the next one. I was pretty determined.

So when it came, and I spun around to go for it, I saw the look of sheer panic in your eyes below me. You were quite a ways down — that wave was meaty. You were sitting right in the impact zone — right where I was aiming — and your boyfriend was right next to you, sitting there, yelling at you to “GO FOR IT!”  You froze as the wall built in front of you, with me on the peak. Neither of you moved, and I was forced to abort before I could get up to turn out of your way. I pushed my board off to the side and tried to jump the other way.

That wave was pretty powerful — it rolled me good and dragged me pretty far. And as I got sucked over the falls and went through the washing machine below, I was just thinking: Please god do not let my board smash this poor girl in the head. I was coming straight at you. I had no idea if I had killed you, but I was really afraid that you’d at least be missing some teeth, it’d be messy, and your boyfriend would want to kill me.

So when I came up and figuring out that everyone was okay, my concern turned to anger. Not because I missed the wave (there were plenty of others), but because your BF put you in that position and almost got you and me hurt pretty badly. I shouted, “What the fuck!?” And gave you and your BF the stink-eye as I climbed back onto my board. I think you started crying and hightailed it back to shore. I didn’t see him after that either.

As I collected myself and paddled back out, I had a chat with an older guy who was really surfing well. We agreed that Capitola is indeed a good spot to learn how to surf, but not on a sizable swell and not on the main peak or in traffic. One of the great things about that spot is it’s friendly to all-comers. Locals, valley weekend warriors like me, kids and the surf schoolers generally all have a lot of fun out there, and there’s always a good vibe in the water.

So, I’m sorry for shouting at you, and for nearly killing you with my 9-2. It wasn’t your fault. We’ve all gotten mowed by a wave before — it’s part of the experience. Even though that wave and I wrecked your day, I hope you don’t stop surfing and hope to see you in the water again. Just leave your boyfriend on the beach.

Mahalo.